Five to seven days on the Bukit, the slow way: when to come, how to get around, and a day-by-day rhythm of surf, padel, the temple, long lunches and quiet afternoons.

A guide to the best beaches in Uluwatu, from easy Padang Padang and Dreamland to wild Nyang Nyang and the Nunggalan shipwreck, with access, surf and tips.